Lombok is a neighboring island to Bali. Despite being close to each other, they are definitely not the same. On the contrary, it’s said that Lombok resembles Bali from 30 years ago. There are places on the island where tourists are seen only occasionally, and several areas where tourism is just beginning. The island is quieter, less crowded, and represents Indonesia more authentically. Instead of colorful temples, you’ll find mosques; instead of restaurants, street food vendors; and in place of civilization, wilderness.
Transport
Transportation in Indonesia is generally chaotic. There are plenty of scooters and cars on the roads, weaving among each other based on where they find space. Indonesian roads vary from beautifully smooth with new asphalt to potholed or rocky, sometimes all on the same stretch. The driving style can be summarized as: if you don’t push your way in, you won’t make progress. If you avoid big cities like Kota Mataram and head to the north on Lombok, you’ll find yourself almost alone on the road. Lombok is a sparsely populated haven of tranquility compared to other islands, including Bali (though you can still venture into remote areas here). The roads are relatively narrow but in good condition (main routes), full of twists and hills.
You can travel around Lombok just like anywhere else in Indonesia, meaning renting a scooter is the best option. You can also take buses, called Bemo (but these are limited and hard to locate), or use taxis or private drivers. Another increasingly popular method, though not widely available, is traveling through Grab and GoJek services.
You can reach Lombok either by domestic or international flights or by ferry from Bali, Gili, or Sumbawa. The cheapest public ferry from Bali departs daily from Padangbai, and you can buy the ticket directly before departure at the counter in the port.
Renting a Scooter
The most efficient way to travel around Lombok is by scooter, allowing access to all parts of the island. The rental cost per day depends on the rental location and duration. You can easily rent scooters in tourist areas like Senggigi or Kuta, with prices around 50,000 rupiahs per day. The gasoline price is around 10 CZK. Given the scooter’s low consumption, it’s the cheapest mode of transportation.
Taxi
Several taxi services operate on Lombok. The main one is the licensed company Blue Bird taxi. Their drivers wear blue shirts with Blue Bird logos, and the cars also display this logo. Beware of locals using blue cars to mimic Blue Bird; the real Blue Bird taxis have a meter, unlike others where you’ll need to negotiate the fare, sometimes extensively. You can get an approximate fare using Grab or GoJek by entering your destination, and the app will show you the price.
Grab and GoJek
These services resemble the European Uber. In the mobile app, you enter your pick-up and drop-off locations, select your mode of transport (a motorcycle for one person or a car for multiple people). Here, you’ll see the price, confirm the ride, and shortly, the driver will pick you up. You can identify the driver by their photo or vehicle’s license plate. Motorcyclists typically wear the company’s jacket. The price isn’t negotiable; you pay what was displayed in the app at the end of the ride.
Bemo
A local bus. You never know when it runs, where it’s going, if it’s running at all, and if you’ll fit in. Locals might advise you where to stand to catch it. It’s a small, dirty, rundown bus that honks as it goes. You just wave, hop on, and off you go. How to differentiate it from other vehicles? Tough. But it’ll recognize you! Its goal is to pick up as many people as possible. Don’t expect comfort or space; it’ll be hot, and often crowded as locals carry various items like cement, chickens, or grass. You never quite know its route or where it’ll drop you. Drivers usually don’t speak much English; you’ll only find out the price, maybe exchange a few basic sentences. This mode of transport gets you, for example, from Bangsal port to Kota Mataram.
Food
Food is very affordable in Lombok, especially outside tourist centers. Expect spiciness and small portions in local food.
Among traditional dishes are:
- Nasi goreng – fried rice with meat and vegetables
- Nasi campur – boiled rice with your chosen side dish (meat, fish, eggs, vegetables)
- Bakso – broth with chicken, vegetables, meatballs, and noodles
- Sate – grilled meat on a skewer
- Mie goreng – fried noodles with vegetables and meat
- Ayam goreng – fried chicken (usually with rice)
- Tempe – essentially fermented soy, a cheap meat substitute. Tempe is usually fried and served as a side dish, often with nasi campur.
- Remember: nasi = rice, goreng = fried, mie = rice noodles, ayam = chicken
Accommodation
You can find accommodation very affordably in Lombok (around 130 CZK for a double room with a bathroom and breakfast). However, don’t expect any luxuries, just a clean place to stay. You can easily make reservations anytime through booking.com, agoda.com, or hostelworld.com.
Places to Visit
Monkey Forest – It’s essentially an inland road between Pamenang and Mataram where you’ll see monkeys lounging on the road, jumping in front of cars, or frolicking in the treetops.
Pamenang-Mataram Pass – A charming coastal road through the Senggigi village. Along the way, you can stop at several viewpoints, decaying villas along the road, or simply by the roadside. Highly photogenic.
Big Tree Sambelia – A beautiful park with ancient trees. Admission fees are required to enter the area; roadside photography is free.
Sendang Gile Waterfall – A beautiful waterfall in the national park at the foot of the majestic Rinjani volcano. Locals have set up a stall by the roadside selling entrance tickets. The trail is well-marked; most of the way is on a maintained path. However, sturdy shoes are recommended. Part of the area is the second waterfall, Tiu Kelep waterfall, a bit further along the road. You can also view the waterfall from a height, specifically from the Kebun kopi dan coklat viewpoint. You can’t reach the viewpoint directly from the waterfall; you have to return to the road and walk around.
Gunung Rinjani – At 3726 meters above sea level, this volcano is the second-highest mountain in all of Indonesia. The biggest attraction here is the treks organized to this mountain. If you plan to hike, it’s ideal to move to the Senaru area and arrange with one of the local offices that organize hikes. Be prepared for a several-day ascent up a steep hill, low temperatures at the top, and amazing views. You’ll need guides and porters for the hike, so it’s not a cheap endeavor. There are multiple options; you can choose a simpler and shorter trek just to the edge of the crater or a longer one up to the summit.
Tetebatu Waterfall – A waterfall on the southern side of the volcano, suitable for bathing.
Air Terjun Benang Kelambu – Another waterfall at the foot of the volcano.
Sade Village – A traditional village with thatched-roof houses in the south of the island. A tourist attraction.
Cities
Senaru – A village in the hills, where most treks to the summit of Mount Rinjani (3,726 m) begin. From the village, you can also visit the Sendang Gile waterfalls. You can easily find accommodation and restaurants here.
Sembalun Village – A typical mountain Muslim village. If you’re interested in how locals live, this village is a good example. Unfortunately, tourism has also reached here, and if you want to visit the viewpoint on the hill, you have to pay a certain amount for the climb. You can also see fields where locals cultivate their crops in neat squares from a miniature hill, but here, too, you have to pay for the view. It seems that as soon as you head towards the hill, out of nowhere, one of the locals will appear with a bag and pull out a booklet with tickets and a notebook where you’re supposed to sign. The locals have simply divided the surrounding hills among themselves and earn from them.
Mataram City – The largest city on the island, practically untouched by tourism. There’s not much to see in the city, and there’s also no direct access to the sea. You can find cheap brand name stores, hotels, and large shopping centers here, you can eat very cheaply, as a pack of nasi campur can be found on the street for as low as 8 Kč. You can also get a local SIM card with 5 GB of internet for around 30 Kč. However, expect heat, smells, and chaotic traffic.
Senggigi – A tourist town with a beach where you can rent scooters to explore the surroundings. Nearby is the port in Bangsal, from where you can reach the Gili islands or Bali.
Kuta Lombok – A town in the south of the island, serving as the main tourist center and base for surfers. Surfing is a big thing here; the southern beaches are ideal for beginners and experienced surfers. People ride motorcycles with surfboards attached directly or arrange tours. There’s a beach near the town, but it’s not very nice; there’s plastic floating around, and there’s no shade. At night, you can see many lights in the sea, locals using flashlights while shrimp fishing in their nets.
Beaches
Mawi Beach – Popular among tourists and locals, with the option to rent surfboards.
Sira Beach – A beach near hotels with a view of the Gili islands. You can reach the beach through an alley between hotels. Since the beach is in front of expensive hotels, it’s a very calm and clean place.
Tanjung Aan Beach – A large beach in a bay. You can reach the beach through an unmaintained road, although a road from the main road is being built (information from 2019). The beach looks beautiful with white sand and blue sea, but unfortunately, there’s plastic. Some places will charge for parking, while at restaurants and beach bars, parking is free if you buy something. Just have a fresh juice, and you’ll have parking and sunbeds under an umbrella for the whole day for free. The atmosphere is still relaxed here, mass tourism hasn’t arrived yet.
Selong Belanak Beach – Highly recommended for beginner surfers. There are no big waves here, making it suitable for learning. For a reasonable price (around 90 Kč per day), you can rent a surfboard and try it yourself, or you can pay for an instructor. The course reportedly lasts until you get the hang of it, which in reality is about an hour, maybe two, but the rest of the day, you can try surfing on your rented board. The price includes renting a surf shirt and a sunbed with an umbrella. As soon as you arrive at the beach, individual instructors will start shouting and offering surfboards and lessons. There’s one school next to the other, but don’t be fooled; prices are not the same everywhere, as the first (most expensive) instructor you meet will probably claim. Walk around and find out the prices yourself. Many will lure you with free sunbeds under an umbrella. After a while, though, they’ll come and ask you to buy a surfing lesson.
The beach is beautifully long and clean. You’ll find some shade under the trees, open sea for swimming, and restaurants. In the morning and evening, you can watch how locals lead their herd of buffalo across the beach. Parking is paid.
Tampah Beach – A quiet beach with clean water. Upon arrival, children will likely greet you and immediately ask for money for parking. You’ll pay an eight-year-old boy and hope he returns the correct change. You can have a meal or juice in several restaurants here, and the beach is cleaned every day, so the sea looks clean too.
Mawun Beach – A surfing beach with restaurants and paid parking.
Pink Beach – A very overpriced beach where the sand appears pink. It’s more of a tourist attraction.
For fairytale beaches with clean coral-filled seas and sea turtles, head to the Gili islands near Lombok. You can also continue to Bali and Nusa Penida.